I am quite sure you have already seen this photograph. Ait Benhaddou is a ksar, a walled citadel made of mud, clay, wood and straw. It is a perfect exemple of the architecture from Moroccan pre-sahara region. Viver a Viagem has been there and shows everything to you!
Keep reading to find out more about:
Ait Benhaddou
Ait means tribe in tamazight (berber). Benhaddou is the name of the tribe. Benhaddou tribe (Ait Benhaddou) is one of many mud, clay and straw berber villages and citadels throughout the country. Its location, aesthetic, history and preservation have turned the village into a UNESCO World Heritage site and a mandatory attraction to any visitor venturing into Morocco.
The oldest structure within walls might have been built no earlier then the 17th century. The city has played a strategic role on the route linking ancient Sudan to Marrakech, through Draa valley and Tizi-n Telouet passage.
There are houses, towers, kasbahs, mosque, squares, a fortress, a caravanserai a terrace for drying grains and to cemeteries (one for jews and other for muslims).
In early 1900s villagers missed infrastructure. There was no electricity, running water, schools nor hospitals. By the mid 40s, they started flocking to the opposite flat riverside, abandoning and changing their houses for masonry material houses.
Electricity hasn’t crossed the river yet and four families still live within walls.
Curiosity: did you know many Berbers carry the name of its tribe on its own name? Mohamed’s full name is Ait Ougrom Mohamed, he is the owner of Kasbah Tebi. Hamid’s full name is Ait Haddou Hamid – from Desert Luxurious Camp in Merzouga. You can tell by the name whose tribe one belongs to.
What to do
Visiting the ksar is mandatory. I came across three entries:
- The main entrance is the one everybody sees across the river. A central gate leading to the citadel. You pay 20 to 30 dirhams to get in;
- The bridge entrance was for free when I visited. As soon as you cross the bridge, turn right and go straight ahead and you will get into the village;
- The exit can also be considered an entrance. All you have to do is cross the river, turn right and follow the signs;
There is also a fourth entrance, but only accessible for those staying at Kasbah Tebi. Viver a Viagem spent a night there and tell all you have to know about it Ait BenHaddou – where to stay.
Once you get into the walls, there is a restored and open to public kasbah on your left. Go upstairs for a beautiful view and a glimpse into the past. You can also spot the mud, clay and straw bricks sill used in the constructions; mud for coating and palm trunks used as columns.
Walk through the alleyways and go up to the fortress, there is no way to get lost. On the way there is a carpet shop still operating. It is possible to see a girl weaving Berber carpets without the hassle of vendors. Ait Benhaddou has a touristic appeal, the price here might be quite high if compared to other places in Morocco.
The village has also been used as location for a couple of movies, such as: The Mummy, Gladiator, Alexander, Babel and Prince of Persia. If you love movies visiting the ksar might be a highlight for you, blending history and fantasy.
There is not much to do in the new city. Stroll, get lost and try to mingle with locals to spend your time; or go shopping for a local souvenir. Ait Benhaddou is a touristic spot, however, less aggressive than Marrakech. Berbers don’t insist as much as its Arab counterparts. Enjoy the opportunity to chat and learn how to negotiate with a Moroccan.
There is a nice advice I would like to share with you. In Morocco, you can get really good crafts. Most of the products and souvenirs are traditionally made by Moroccans and for Moroccans to use on the daily life. Of course, Moroccans realise how they can also sell them to tourists and do take their income from commerce and tourism.
What I want to say is that if you know where to shop, you can get great products for great prices. I was glad to see that the country hasn’t been taken by the plastic and mande in China tsunami of cheap souvenirs.
Also, don’t you dare going out from Ait Benhaddou without seeing either sunrise of sunset.
You can go up the river following P1506 road for 50 km until Telouet kasbah, still not touched by mass tourism.
Where to stay?
Many people go to the ksar for a day trip. I am not against it, however, it’s a shame to be for such a short time in a place full of history and close to a beautiful valley worth exploring. For those deciding to stay, I suggest two nights and two different perspectives: stay in a hotel facing the ksar and in a hotel within the walls.
Viver a Viagem had the opportunity to do it. On the first day, we slept on the first house to be built when dwellers started going to the other side of the river. From the terrace you can see the ksar without any building on front of you. You can see sunrise, sunset and have breakfast with the most beautiful backdrop in the area.
There are many hotels from all the ranges and budgets. If you decide to stay there for one night, look for a hotel right in front of the river.
On the second day, we went to a 400-year-old kasbah within the walls of the citadel. There are three hotels there, being Kasbah Tebi the most beautiful and worth staying. Indulge yourself and don’t miss this single opportunity.
Read the exclusive post on the experience of staying on both hotels Ait Benhaddou – where to stay.
How to get there?
You might have arrived in Morocco through Tanger, Casablanca or Marrakech and I assume you want to visit the desert. Ait Benhaddou is located between the High Altas range and the desert. You can either hop on a tour van; rent a car; buy a bus ticket or share a grand taxi.
Tour company
Most people buy a tour package for three or four days from Marrakech to the desert, with a quick stop at Ait Benhaddou and Ouarzazate, where they generally sleep one night. If that is your pick, there is not much to worry about. You are being taken care of. Just enjoy.
An interesting way to travel with a tour company is to hire a company that customise a tour for you. During my stay in Morocco I got in touch with Wild Morocco and had a wonderful time venturing the Erg Chigaga desert.
Car
If you are on Europe, hop on a ferry and cross the Gibraltar Strait to Tanger. If that is your option, bear in mind tha kind of adventure you are up for. Moroccan roads are generally good. However, if you intendo to go off the grid either bring or rent a 4×4 vehicle.
If you are coming from Marrakech, take the N9 road and go towards Ouarzazate. Once you arrive in Tabourahte, turn left and head to Ait Benhaddou through P1506. If you want the most beautiful scenery, as soon as you cross Tizi N’Tichka passage, turn left and hit P1506 until you get to Ait Benhaddou.
If you are coming from Fez or Draa valley, go to Ouarzazate e keep on the N9 road until Tabourahte, then turn right and hit P1506 until you get to Ait Benhaddou.
Bus plus grand taxi
That was my choice. I bought a ticket from Marrakech to Ouarzazate by bus operator Supratours and asked the driver to stop at Tabourahte. Once I got there, I shared a grand taxi to Ait Benhaddou. Bus ticket costed me 80 dirhams and grand taxi 30 dirhams.
If you are coming from Fez or Draa Valley, stop at Ouarzazate and share a grand taxi.
Referências e Notas Explicativas
